JACQUARD DESIGN
This classroom project was not just about designing surfaces for jacquard weaving, but also understanding the functioning of the loom, the most suitable weave structure for that specific surface in order to attain the most effective results.
UNDERSTANDING THE WORKING OF A JACQUARD
Jacquard attachment is a device incorporated in special looms to control individual warp yarns. It enabled looms to produce fabrics having intricate woven patterns such as tapestry, brocade, and damask. A jacquard loom lets the weaver operate every single end in their desired way.
A graph representation of the designed surface is made. The cards are punched and stitched together and is installed over a cylinder. Each punched card represents each pick that is to be woven. As the cylinder rotates the cards rotate and interact with a system of knife, needles and hooks. The holes in these cards determine the set of ends that are lifted to form the shed. Extremely intricate patterned fabric can be produced can be produced by electronic jacquard.
INSPIRATION - JAPANESE TEXTILE AESTHETICS
CONCEPTS AND EXPLORATIONS
CREATING THE WEAVE PATTERN
The weave structure for one of the surface pattern has to created. The most suitable weave structure and technique is picked. The weave structures are translated into the graphs according to the design that is later punched into cards.
MAKING THE DESIGN SUITABLE FOR HAND LOOM
The picked surface has very minute details, which can be very easily woven in an electronic jacquard and also since certain parts of the fabric will shrink(acrylic weft)and the other side will pop up,in order to achieve most efficient effect the width of the line in the design has to kept 4 mm(minimum).
WEFT PATTERNING
Extra weft patterning.
One warp (warp- yellow)
One ground weft and one extra weft.
One warp (warp- yellow)
One ground weft and one extra weft.
Ground weft- blue( 7 up 1 down twill)
extra weft-red (3 up 1 down twill)
WARP (with only ground weft)
WEFT PATTERN